Component of specific etheric oils Smell: Lily of the Valley. Scent ingredient for the manufacture of lineolic acetate.

Approximately 1 to 2 percent of Europeans react allergically to chemical scents. An allergy can be summarized as an abnormal reaction to materials, the so-called allergens. Researchers have, however, also discovered as susceptibility for special aromatic carbohydrates (terpenes), which are used as scent ingredients in products – from perfumes to household cleaners. Many terpenes are derived from etheric plant oils, such as e. g. limes, which come from lemons and oranges. The National Instituted for Working Life in Sweden researched the allergenicity of terpene and its oxidation products. Up to 3% of the tested people reacted to the band-aid above all the oxidized limonenes and oxidized linalools. The researchers discovered that patients with contact allergies showed stronger reactions. The European Commission has limited the use of limes, because they can cause allergies through skin contact.

Description of scent materials for perfume (aroma and scent materials) must in contrast to other ingredients not be individually called out, but can be included under the name 'perfume,' or 'aroma.' In order to protect people who are allergic or oversensitive to specific aroma materials, the obligation for descriptions was extended in 2005. Now, 26 aroma materials must be individually designated. Included in this are above all the materials which cause the most allergies in people across Europe. The consumer is able to avoid products with materials which cause allergic reactions. These shown in the following table have materials* which must be given on the ingredients list, if their contents in products which are either washed away after use (shower gel, shampoo, soap) compose 0.01% or more * in products which remain on the skin or hair (crème, perfumes, hair gel) 0.001% Under this contents one can assume that no allergic reactions will appear with the use of the cosmetic materials.

For the description of scent materials the same regulations apply as those which have applied for years for the described components according to paragraph 5a, section 2 of the cosmetic regulations: They must be described in increasing level according to their weight at the time of their manufacture of the cosmetic materials, and then afterwards can be given as contents of less than 1% without an ordering in the ingredients list by weight. The scent materials are therefore found in most products in the lower part of the components list. The following materials are impacted by this regulation, independent of whether they are synthetic scent perfume components, or whether they e. g. contain natural components from etheric oils in cosmetics (listing in alphabetical order with the INCI description, as they would be used in the components list): ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE; AMYL CINNAMAL; AMYLCINNAMYL ALCOHOL; ANISE ALCOHOL; BENZYL ALCOHOL; BENZYL BENZOATE; BENZYL CINNAMATE; BENZYL SALICYLATE; BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL; CINNAMAL; CINNAMYL ALCOHOL; CITRAL; CITRONELLOL; COUMARIN; EUGENOL; EVERNIA FURFURACEA EXTRACT; EVERNIA PRUNASTRI EXTRACT; GERANIOL; FARNESOL; HEXYL CINNAMAL; HYDROXYCITRONELLAL; HYDROXYISOHEXYL-3-CYCLOHEXENE CARBOXALDEHYD; ISOEUGENOL; LIMONENE; LINALOOL; METHYL 2-OCTYNOATE

Anyone who dry shaves and uses aftershave every day has a two- to three-fold higher risk of developing allergies than someone who wet shaves and comes into contact with perfumes in aftershaves much less frequently. Fragrances are in first or second place – with an upward trend - in all studies of skin allergies, whether in the Netherlands, the US, or Germany. The reason is thought to be that we come into contact with too many perfumed products. Sensitivity increases, especially in women, who not only use a lot of cosmetic products but also come into contact with scented household cleaners and detergents.

Perfume belongs to the 20 most-frequent allergens.

Phototoxic reactions. If drugs or cosmetics containing phototoxic substances are applied to the skin or ingested and the user exposes himself/herself to the sun, inflammatory reactions of the skin may occur even at low levels of sun radiation. Tetracyclines, perfume oils, preservatives, coloring agents are phototoxic, for example. Photoallergic reactions. They occur when a specific sensitization to the substance in question has been acquired and sun hits the skin, or if the sun has altered the substance in such a way that the organism reacts allergic.

Perfume additives are disadvantageous for skin allergies, sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, psoriasis, problem skin, babies’ and children’s skin.

Fragrance allergy Fragrances are an indispensable part of our everyday lives. Both natural essences and oils and synthetic fragrances are used in perfumes and everyday products such as cosmetics, cleaning agents, detergents, and fabric softeners. Although interiors are scented to create a pleasant atmosphere, fragrances not only have pleasant properties, but may also cause health problems. Intolerance to fragrances is expressed as a contact allergy in the form of allergic contact dermatitis. In Germany, about 15-20 percent of the population is affected. After nickel (15 percent), fragrances are the second most common cause of contact allergies. Diagnosis of fragrance allergy Two test mixtures are currently available to allergists for patch testing: fragrance mix I and fragrance mix II. The majority of positive findings are caused by isoeugenol and oakmoss. Since the spring of 2007, all 26 allergenic fragrances requiring labeling can be tested individually. This facilitates the search for the trigger somewhat but does not really make it easier, especially since the fragrance compositions in a product usually consist of several individual components with different allergy potentials and at different concentrations. Avoid fragrances People allergic to fragrances only have to avoid the relevant fragrance. This is not easy, despite the declaration requirements for cosmetics, because on the packaging, consumers merely find the collective terms “perfume,” “fragrance,” “aroma,” or “flavor” that only make general reference to the added fragrances. The composition and concentrations of the individual components are not declared – with the exception of the 26 fragrances that have been singled out due to their high allergy potential. Their INCI names are mentioned separately on the product packaging. The Cosmetics Directive requires their declaration, if the concentration of critical fragrances exceeds 0.01% in products that do not remain on the skin (e.g., shower gels, shampoos) and 0.001% in products that remain on the skin (e.g. lotions, make-up, sunscreens, deodorants).

Duty of declaration An estimated 1 to 3% of Europeans currently suffer from allergic reactions to fragrances. For this reason, fragrances must be declared if at least 0.001% of the substance is contained in a product which remains on the skin (“leave-on” product). A limit of 0.01% applies to cosmetics that are rinsed off (“rinse-off” products) (IKW Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel e.V., 2004). Generally, fragrances are marked with the collective terms of “perfume,” “fragrance,” “aroma,” or "flavor.” he 26 fragrances declared to have very high allergy potentials are exceptions to this. They must be individually listed on the packaging. Usually, the INCI name (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is specified. The indication of these fragrances allows both doctors and affected persons to identify and avoid substances with allergenic potential. In recent years, experts have identified another 30 chemicals and 26 natural extracts that may cause contact dermatitis and recommended limits for them. When these limits are adhered to, it is assumed that people allergic to the substances will not suffer from allergic reactions when using cosmetics with the aforementioned ingredients and that people not allergic to them will be protected against the development of allergies. An EU committee is currently examining whether and how the previous limits will be newly regulated at the European level. The committee is also examining whether the recently identified fragrances will be included in the list of declarable fragrances.

Odorous or aroma substances require only the terms “perfume,” or “aroma,” with the exception of those substances specified in Appendix 2 Part A No. 67-92. If these exceed a concentration of 0.001% in cosmetics and 0.01% in products that are rinsed out, they must be listed by name.